Money No Object: dining in London’s finest
"One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well." Virginia Woolf
So here’s my first ever blog post. I was asked for a short list of restaurants for a friend of a friend, who was coming to London for a few weeks. I was told that cost was not a constraint. Which is sort of a shame because minimising cost is a fun thing to do (and sometimes necessary, of course) that demands an extra layer of creativity and leads you to the sort of quirky restaurants that sit below the traditonal radar but which London does so well thanks to a profound domestic culinary awakening since the 1990’s, mixed with generations of immigration from around the globe. Maybe cheap eats will be my second blog. Anyway, I began typing out my recommendations: the name, where it is, what type it is, and why I recommend it. A trickle of satisfying and waisteline-groaning memories rapidly turned into an avalanche of suggestions, of which 18 have made it into this final list.
I don't know some parts of London very well and South London is a total mystery (even though the 'edgy' area of Peckham has now got some of the highest rated restaurants in London - which I do plan to visit). I'm also not very good on Japanese food and I don't really get the bao bun thing. So not comprehensive and very personal of course, but I have tried to represent lots of different London areas so you get a tour of areas in case you don't know them. But if money is no object, enjoy the journey!
Let me know your thoughts and favourites too.
1. Coya
What? Peruvian. Where? Go to the one on Piccadilly, edge of Mayfair (there's two), near Hyde Park Corner. Why? Very cool vibe, great and inventive ceviche. Just a lovely evening.
2. Carmel
What? great, great Israeli, like being in cool Tel Aviv. Where? Queens Park. Why? Because it's great for a lazy Saturday brunch, casual (but serious) dinner that is more laid back than the centre of town (I actually had a biz dinner there recently) and great bar seats if you're on your own or with one other where you can watch them doing the hard work. The food is just delicious. Good for vegetarians, and they'll convert it to vegan if required.
What? Classic modern british, one michelin star (and a great sister resto in the French Alps we ate at in December!). Where? South Kensington/ Chelsea/ Knightsbridge. Why? When you're ready for a grown up (not crazy formal, but one of the most formal on this list) evening bursting with original flavours. But never leaving you feeling heavy....
What? Modern British (full three michelin stars?). Where? Notting Hill. Why? Because it may be the best meal you ever eat. Is catering Meghan and Harry's wedding a positive?
5. Tehran-Berlin (formally The Drunken Butler)
What? Persian food with 70's furniture like his Grandma's apartment in Tehran before the revolution. Where? Clerkenwell. Why? Because I haven't eaten amazing Persian food like that, the best rice in the world, and a great back story from a lovely owner.
6. Caia
What? A very cool spot with delicious modern European and Mediterranean food. Where? Notting Hill. Why? Because it's young, cool and totally delicious, and they're playing their chilled vinyls on the decks (either from the owner's collection or stuff they bring in for the evening). And, unlike us you probably won't double the average age and be treated (very sweetly) like a national treasure.
7. Yauatcha
What? All day dim sum with a modern twist. Where? Soho. Why? Because it's delicious, innovative and half of Hong Kong is now a regular. Set up by the restaurant genius Alan Yau who gave birth to the quality chain restaurant Wagamama's, amongst other experiments. It may feel a little 1990's now.
8. Tattu
What? Great Cantonese restaurant (maybe the best in London without being a shiny, wanker restaurant). Where? Tottenham Court Road. Why? Delicious and innovative, beautiful surroundings, and worth seeing the regeneration of this corner of central London north of Soho. I hear the dim sum is amazing too.
9. Trullo
What? Italian. Where? Highbury/ Islington. Why? Delicious pasta in a cool low fi environment. There are some other great italians doing great pasta, but I can't be arsed any more with restaurants that don't take bookings.
10. Luca
What? Italian (one michelin star) and owned by The Clove Club (which I haven't included in this list). If you want to pay a £40 supplement for truffle shavings on top of your pasta, the Clove Club is definitely the place to go! But I was underwhelmed. Where? Clerkenwell. Why? Because it's a lovely place for a chilled and delicious night of serious Italian food with top ingredients (proud of the local/UK ingredients). I loved it in a low key kind of way.
11. Pizzaro
What? Spanish and Tapas. Where? Bermondsey. Why? One of the best. Delicious and mildly original tapas, cool friendly people, lovely setting.
12. 40 Maltby Street
What? European, and whatever genius things they decide to do with the fresh ingredients. Where? Just a short walk from Borough Market. Why? Because it's where the best chef's go when they have a night off. It's seriously good and worth compromising for a 6pm table if that's what it takes.
13. Beast
What? Steak? Where? Near Oxford Circus. Why? Because it's unbelievable and if the steak doesn't make you cry, the bill definitely will. Much better value and the second best in London is Hawksmoor in about 5 locations (and now also in NYC and Chicago).
14. Gymkhana
What? Michelin-starred Indian, now two, (the OG of posh Indian food in London). Where? Mayfair. Why? To decide whether it's a waste of money and you’d prefer to be in your favourite local Indian restaurant, because that's part of the thing.
15. Trivet
What? Lovely two michelin-starred global menu (with a Euro lens) and a little bit of formality. Where? Bermondsey. Why? Where else are you going to eat some of the best food ever washed down with expensive Armenian wine? We didn't try the Georgian - next time...
16. Ladbroke Arms
What? An amazing Gastropub full of the well-healed locals - young (just back from a ski season) and old (just back from selling a small country to Elon Musk on behalf of their global bank). Where? Kensington. Why? Because it's totally like a lovely pub, but the food is the best.
What? An unusually bright and charming, grown-up restaurant in the West End with an atmosphere as refined as the one Michelin star food itself. Where? Just off Regent St. Why? Because the experience is dominated by the culinary genius of Jason Atherton and not his ego. And where else does a star chef unprompted quietly sidle over to wish my Dad happy birthday brandishing a signed copy of his latest cookbook?
18. Scotts
What? A wood-panelled Mayfair seafood institution. Where? Just north of Berkeley Square. Why? Because it is quite possibly the most beautiful dining room in London. With a healthy serving of delicious food and classy silver service.
